Posts Tagged ‘spirit of Paris’

Luxury of Palais Royal

Palais Royal_fontaineAmong numerous Parisian sights the special place occupies a unique palace which has begun its history as the Cardinal’s possession, has continued as the Royal, eventually has reincarnated in a brothel, has taken direct part in Great French revolution … the First French passage of  Palais Royal – the child of well-known “awful” Cardinal Richelieu.

First of all, let’s specify what “passage” means. In one of historical documents a name passage in Paris used to be exclusively given to walking path which connected two streets. These are such places where numerous shops and restaurants settle down; here enamored gentlemen appoint secret meetings to ladies. For today Paris has six thousand streets, and three tens from them are proudly called passages, however only their tenth part corresponds to the old name.

So, we will return to the object of our narration. Palais Royal along with many things in France has got interesting history. We all know that Cardinal Richelieu was an extremely influential person in the politics of France (and all Europe) in the seventeenth century. And this person constantly changed places, however he could not find really comfortable place for a life for a long time. In the countryside residences he could not show his active nature completely, and to live under the same roof with “the weak” monarch was below his honor, after all the Cardinal, whatever one may say, considered himself the main person in the country.

As a result in 1624 Richelieu has bought an estate of Angennes near the Louvre which at that time already had several buildings, a garden and defensive towers. It could not satisfy him, and he decided to erect a magnificent palace corresponding to the greatness of the Cardinal. The author of the project of this palace was a close friend of Richelieu architect Jacques Lemercier. He has constructed a majestic building fast enough; it has received the first name – Palais Cardinal.

The palace has turned out truly magnificent, it had everything possible to wish, including huge library, own theatre, a real Guards hall. The collection of picturesque paintings of the Cardinal consisted of hundreds of works of such well-known masters as Tiziano, Rafael, Rubens, Leonardo da Vinci, Dürer and others. Besides that, lots of unique sculptures pleasing a look of the owner have been installed in palace forcing to envy its visitors, including King Louis. As the Cardinal was the cleverest and most perspicacious person he understood that “impudence” of such kind can lead to serious problems with the monarch. And to exclude it, he bequeathed his palace to the Royal family after his death.

Louis XIII could not take full pleasure in all delights of the palace as he has lived a year longer than his minister and has left this world in 1643. However, the palace was not empty for long as his widow– Queen Anne d’Autriche has moved in there with the children (future king Louis XIV Le Roi Soleil among them) and her favorite Cardinal Mazarini. So, the palace got a new name of Palais Royal.

Having ascended to the throne, the young monarch has left magnificent apartments which apparently did not cause warm feelings in him, and has presented it to his brother Philippe d’Orléans. The palace was in possession of this clan up to the Great French revolution.

For centuries Palais Royal (or Cardinal) has undergone many changes; however it always remained one of the most magnificent palaces in Europe. Today it is a gorgeous place which is visited by many thousand tourists from various corners of the world every year. We wish you, visiting Paris, come there personally to see all its magnificence.

Le Bon Marché

Le Bon MarchéDespite the attempts of Milan and London, Paris was and remains the fashion capital. Everyone knows that Paris is the style and entourage law-maker; however, very few people know that Paris once was as well the innovator in sale rules. The modern culture of shopping was generated here. It is possible to do purchases, being dipped into shine and luxury and also to study history of modern trade in Paris.

The first Parisian department store Le Bon Marché has been created under the project of Gustave Eiffel in 1852. The name “bon marché” is sometimes wrongly translated as “cheap”. And though the department store concept assumed in due time sale of the goods under lower prices, today Le Bon Marché is not the cheapest shop.

One of the meanings of “bon marché” is “the successful deal”. Today it seems improbable, but in the first French department store it was accepted to bargain. It was here for the first time when price lists on the goods and the fixed prices appeared; because of great volumes of trade the need for price discussion between the seller and the buyer has gradually disappeared. Here for the first time there were seasonal sales which make customers of all world go nuts.

Then, in the end of the XIX-th century, being surrounded by the abundance of luxury in a huge, by measures of that time, shop, female customers often sinned with larceny, using the magnificent skirts to hide the stolen goods. And it is not sophisticated, after all Le Bon Marché is a present kingdom of the goods and services.

La Grande EpicerieNowadays it is possible to find practically everything here. From perfumery, cosmetics, bags and hats located on the ground floor, to the goods for children, animals, house ware, and special design departments and so on. On the last floor there is a completely not modern and rare department “everything for needlework”, also there is a wedding salon and an excellent department of antiques that is not typical for today’s department stores.

And the grocery department – also exclusively rich – is not in this building. It is situated in a separate «Big grocery», located on the other side of the road. La Grande Epicerie is a present find for gourmets. There is an opinion among Parisians that if you cannot find something here it is possible that this product does not exist in the nature.

However, despite all variety of the offered goods Le Bon Marché is not overcrowded. And even during the sales season of there are practically no tourists. Or maybe the shop is just so huge…?

Planning having a walk on the left bank of the Seine after visiting Champ de Mars, Les Invalides and Jardin du Luxembourg take some time and visit Le Bon Marché. By the way it is the only decent shop on the left bank.

The department store works on week days 09:30-19:00, on Thursday 10:00-21:00, on Saturday 09:30-20:00. Grocery department La Grande Epicerie works from Monday to Saturday 08:30-21:00.

The address: 24 rue de Sèvres, 7th district.
Ph.: +33 1 44 39 80 00

Web site: www.bonmarche.fr

Metro station: Sèvres Babylone

Winter … Christmas … Paris …

Cristmas in ParisAt all times Paris was the place which attracted and still attracts millions of visitors from every corner of the globe. Thanks to the architecture, history, and its unique picturesque spirit Paris is some kind of “Mecca” for numerous tourists. And what is indeed important is that the City on the Seine does not lose the feature, uniqueness and appeal any time of the year. Thanks to that its streets are filled by eager travelers.

For those (no matter where they come from, cold Russia and Canada, or hot Australia and Argentina) who have luck to see Paris in winter, the city remains in memory as magnificent, fantastic and shrouded in aura of romanticism.

Fast approach of Christmas and New Year’s holidays in the capital of France is already felt by the end of November. It is necessary to notice that for Frenchmen, as well as for the majority of inhabitants of the Western Europe, Christmas is the most significant holiday of the year, and therefore they prepare for it with the big scope.

So, at this time the Champs-Élysées from the Arc de Triomphe to Place Charles de Gaulle (for those who do not remember, there was such a well-known French president-guerrilla) are decorated by the most beautiful light equipment. For your disposal here are forty five (45!) kilometers of garlands, more than hundred and thirty thousand of bulbs, more than six thousand of special lamps-flashes which are lighting up everything around.

The closer the approach of a long-awaited holiday – the more beautiful fur-trees appear in streets of Paris. Like everything in this city, they are dressed in elegant “dresses” from local couturiers. Ten thousand Christmas-New Year trees settle down on the city streets as well as in all restaurants, shops, hotels and houses of Parisians.

Champs Élysées in winterIf you happen to be in Paris during this remarkable time, you can visit a wonderful exhibition of Christmas trees in Rue de Rivoli (the street of Rivoli) where the celebratory fur-trees are displayed all decorated by designers, stylists, dressers and even confectioners and jewelers representing the well-known brands from every corner of the globe.

For junior tourists it might be a great attraction to visit one of the Parisian puppet theatres where Christmas scenes are performed.

The big square near the Paris mayor’s house decorated by statues of one and a half tens of the most well-known Parisians is the most vivid place during the winter holidays. Lots of grandiose dramatized Christmas plays take place in a huge marquee in this square.

For fans to take a look at vicinities of winter Paris from the height of the bird’s flight, skating at the same time, there is an ice skating rink opened on Tour Eiffel (the Eiffel Tower), at fifty seven meters height. As they say: all for you!

Besides, all other sights of Paris are ready to please city visitors all year round.

In spite of the fact that Parisian streets will be filled by “aroma” of Christmas this time of the year, have pleasure in visiting the most significant places of the French capital, after all it is worth it.

The Avenue des Champs-Élysées and the Arc de Triomphe, Montmartre and the Louvre, Notre Dame de Paris- all this is only a top of an iceberg – the name to which is Paris!

Cultural and “flea” Paris

It is natural that such sights as Arc de Triomphe, Grands Boulevards (the Big Parkways), la Place de la Bastille (the Bastille Square) and La Place Pigalle, Tour Eiffel, the Louvre and Jardin du Luxembourg, are some kind of official symbols of Paris. However it is impossible to learn a city completely, let’s say, experience its real spirit if you don’t visit some places which are not described in tourist guidebooks and are generally known by local residents and some of the tough tourist-savages.

And so Paris without its flea markets (Marchais aux puces) is not Paris! In capital of the country of King Louis there are some tens of such “lush” places, and the most known, cult and remarkable are the markets located in Port de Montreuil and Port Sent-Ouen area. But don’t think the named flea markets are settled near any ports, it is not so.

The word «Porte» is translated from French, as “gate”. For the Parisian natives (however, the same as for Muscovites) the flea market is not so much of a trading place, but the cultural phenomenon. In all local circulation of purchase and sale the major component is in numerous stories and the myths transferred “by word of mouth”. In general, in similar places people are engaged in trade, eat and drink, arrange musical performances, or simply stare on associates, fall in love, steal and do whatever they want.

Saint-Ouen Flea MarketThe largest, probably, is the Saint-Ouen Flea Market. It is situated in the north of Paris and represents a certain similarity of a small town the small streets of which have well-known shops and stores.

Thus each street has its own distinctive features. It is possible to tell that some kind of rigid specialization is presented here. So, for example, on one street people are engaged in trade of exclusively leather goods, and on another – porcelain and ware, and the third – antiques subjects. As for antiques – France is a well of antiques. It was never really robbed in the course of two World Wars, therefore nowadays it is possible to come across many interesting things in the similar markets (and not only there).

Certainly, you won’t have a chance to buy a Leonardo da Vinci’s creation for ten euros here, but the searching process of something worthwhile will bring great pleasure to any expert of the kind. Along with the antiques a brisk trade of such strange at first sight subjects, as old rusty cranes, broken toys, old dummies, irons, refrigerators and many other things is going on flea markets.

Montreuil flea marketThe Montreuil flea market in the east of Paris looks like the younger brother Saint-Ouen Flea Market with poorer combination of the offered goods. To some extent it reminds of similar domestic spontaneous markets which existed at the time of Gorbachev’s perestroika. Basically it offers stolen home appliances, Arabian brocade, and false Swiss watches.

Some people might question themselves: “What would such an anachronism, in general, be kept in Paris for?” Only here in a grief of old footwear it is possible to find Mireille Mathieu shoes, for example. Or assorting piles of old rags, come across a unique dress haute Coco Chanel or a pair of classical American Levi’s jeans produced while Elvis Presley was on stage. Believe it or not, it is even possible to find our bayans and accordions which god knows how found their way to this city …